I’m a transplanted southerner and everytime I try to make biscuits I am reminded of that fact. Everyone in the South just seems to be born knowing how to make light-as-a-cloud, fluffy biscuits. So, as a northerner I was determined that if I didn’t get the genetic gift of biscuit-baking by birth I would earn it by sheer will...and many, many biscuit fails. While I’ve probably made more hockey-puck biscuits than light-as-a-cloud ones I have finally discovered the deep, dark secret of biscuit making. You need to be born in the South. No, just kidding (kind of), you need to back away from everything you ever thought about bread baking because this is biscuit baking. In other words, no kneading.
I am sure many of you (mostly southerners but a few savvy northerners) are shaking your heads as if my eureka moment is pure ‘DUH’ but this northerner had no idea...until recently. Anything related to bread was just begging to be kneaded and many recipes I followed for biscuits omitted the crucial instructions…’combine flour, buttermilk, salt, baking powder and chilled butter and BACK AWAY FROM THE BOWL!” Seriously. My northern sensibilities wanted to just knead the heck out of those sweet little powdery nuggets but then one day I stumbled upon ‘the gift’. Buried in the recipe for Southern-style Biscuits was the crucial warning ‘a light touch is essential, handle the dough and the biscuits as little as possible’. Eureka! It really was that simple. I had tried Lily flour, unbleached organic flour, George Washington’s flour and every kind of buttermilk and baking powder the stores offered and the whole time I was baking hockey-pucks the missing ingredient was benign neglect of that biscuit dough! I can do benign neglect!
So, the recipe that follows is pure simplicity. Just flour (any kind will do, trust me), baking powder, salt and cold butter...and benign neglect. Yup, it’s the essential ingredient in any southern light-as-a-cloud biscuit. Take it from a weary northerner...just back away from the bowl y’all.
South by North Biscuits
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons VERY COLD butter cubed
1 cup buttermilk
Mix dry ingredients together in a large bowl and add butter. Pinch the flour mixture together with the butter until it all forms a kind of coarse, grainy sand texture. Pour in the buttermilk and mix until just combined - it should be a shaggy, wet dough. DO NOT OVERMIX Y’ALL! form into biscuits and bake at 450 for 10 to 15 minutes until just golden brown - don’t overbake!
(Most recipes call for rolling this dough out and cutting it into cute (read ‘perfect’) circles but I’m a big fan of simply tearing pieces of dough off and quickly forming them into shapes vaguely resembling circles (or maybe an Egyptian pyramid). Just don’t hold those little darlin’s too long in your hot lil’ hands honey. You need to act as though that biscuit dough is red hot and hard to handle. And, THAT is the secret to light-as-a-cloud, fluffy biscuits y’all. You’re welcome).